![]() So, unless you're willing to spend some time ordering and comparing, I agree that it's best to re-use the original part if possible. Mechanically, the new Corvette shared the same engines and transmissions from 1962. Tire size remained the same at 6.70 X 15 inches, but the front and rear track dimensions changed slightly. In 1963, it was shortened to 98 inches, where it remained for many years. ![]() Unless you opened the box- and knew what you were looking for- you couldn't be sure what you'd end up with. In 19 models, the wheelbase was 102 inches. ![]() For a time both the old and new rotors sat on the shelf side-by-side. They were even inferior to the after market (chain store) Chinese "prison camp rotors". Although the new rotors were stocked under the original name and part number, they were definitely inferior to the older US made rotors. For example, when I worked at a certain dealership a factory rep came in and "bragged" that they had saved big money and farmed out the production of their brake rotors to a Pakistani manufacturer. Many years ago there was some consistency, not so much today. I did that with almost every part I sold, be it wheel cylinder or water pump. Many times I had to remove the part from the box to compare it with the customer's original. You may find wheel cylinders under the same brand name with two different bleeder angles on the same shelf. I can tell you from experience that you cannot be sure just what you'll get until you have the actual part in your hand. I've worked in auto parts- dealerships and retail chains- since the 70s. To me, the pictures on Rock Auto's site were definitely showing angled bleeders, but when they arrived they were straight. The camera perspective makes them look a little bit angled, but I don't think so, and I've learned not to trust photos. ![]() It looks to me like those Raybestos bleeders are straight. My original problem was solved with the AC Delco cylinders, and I've accumulated three spare sets for the future. I do have a couple of similar wrenches myself. If your bleeders are metric, just swap them out with standard hex bleeders from the parts store of your choice. Jim, I also have a number of 3/8" ignition wrenches that I hoarded from a great bargain on Ebay. How about these? Take a look at the last two photos as they appear to be at a slight angle, and they are stamped Made in USA. Having someone assist you in lowering/pulling the bumper assembly away from the car once the fasteners are managed will be helpful, and don?t forget to disconnect the wires to the license plate lights, back-up lights, and the tail/brake lights.Has anyone found new front wheel cylinders with the bleed screw angled towards the back of the cylinder like the originals? The new ones I'm finding have a freakin' 8MM bleed screw that sticks straight out and is right up against the spindle. It is best to soak everything several times over the course of a week with WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar rust dissolver.ĭepending on stubbornness, skill, available tools, determination, and rust levels, you may have to torch some of the fasteners on the outer brackets and replace with new? which I would do anyway. The outer brackets are a pain, each held to the box sections (frame?) just inboard of the muffler, by two nuts/bolts. The center section is attached with studs and nuts accessible from within the trunk flanking the filler neck tunnel, as well as the nuts directly below (vertical) at the lower edge of the bumper. The rear bumper assembly (Center Section, Q?s, and brackets) needs to be removed as a unit.
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